Promoting Emerging Fashion Designers in the Age of AI

Paulius Jurcys
8 min readOct 5, 2024

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Fashion is probably the most rapidly area of business. New ideas are being adopted at a supersonic speed, fashion trends change every season.

In the quickly evolving world of fashion, competition fierce. This competition takes place not only between established luxury brands but also among emerging designers striving to make their mark.

These talented creators, bursting with innovative ideas, often face significant challenges — particularly when it comes to resources. Without the capital or the infrastructure of established brands, their creative visions can struggle to reach the runway.

In this post, I’d like to share some thoughts highlighting the emerging complexity for emerging creators and global brands because of increasingly complex global web of laws and regulations.

Here are three key insights:

💎 New perspective: Circular Concept of “Fashion 4.0” which highlights the critical role of data in powering smart factories, smart products, and smart networks, driving innovation and efficiency throughout the fashion value chain.

💎 Regulatory Pressures on Fashion Designers: Over 700 new AI regulations are expected to take effect globally in the next 12–18 months, alongside increasingly stringent national regulations governing the global supply chain, creating immense compliance burdens for smaller players. How can fashion businesses manage such a burden?

đź’Ž Solutions for Compliance Through AI: To alleviate the regulatory pressures on emerging designers, there is a pressing need to leverage AI and data technologies. These tools can streamline operations, enhance transparency, and help manage compliance more effectively, allowing designers to focus on creativity while navigating the complex regulatory landscape.

📚 This article is based on our latest draft paper “Fashion 4.0 and Emerging Designers: Leveraging Data and AI to Drive Creativity, Innovation, and Compliance with Global Supply Chain Regulations” by myself, and my two amazing collaborators: Eleanor Rockett and Prof. Mark Fenwick.

👇🏼 I hope that you find this post insightful 👇🏼

Fashion Meets Technology: How Harri is Disrupting the Industry with Bold Designs

Harri, an emerging force in the London fashion scene, is spearheaded by Indian designer Harikrishnan, whose avant-garde inflatable latex garments have captured the attention of the fashion world.

Harri’s designs push the boundaries of traditional fashion, combining modern materials and craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. This bold, nonconformist approach to fashion has earned Harri recognition, including being named a British Fashion Council NEWGEN recipient, highlighting the brand’s creative ingenuity.

Credit: LE MILE Magazine

Despite its global acclaim, Harri faces significant challenges in protecting its intellectual property, especially given the intricate global supply chain that supports its unique designs. From sourcing latex in Sri Lanka to the finest Scottish wool, Harri’s creations are highly susceptible to imitation, making IP protection crucial yet complex.

In addition to the creative innovations, Harri is reimagining business models by embracing technology and sustainability. Alongside business partner Abhinov Asokan, Harri runs a blockchain-based digital product passport app, Lyftime, which explores alternative revenue streams such as licensing imagery and hosting exclusive exhibitions.

This dual focus on design and innovative business practices illustrates Harri’s broader vision: to build a brand that thrives in a global, tech-driven fashion landscape while also navigating the growing complexity of compliance and regulatory requirements.

AI Tools are Reshaping Fashion Business

Emerging AI tools are fundamentally transforming the fashion industry, influencing every stage of the value chain — from design to production and retail. Here are some examples:

AI in Design

On the design front, AI-powered platforms like CLO 3D and Browzwear allow designers to rapidly create new patterns, simulate fabric behavior, and visualize garments in real-time, significantly reducing the need for physical samples.

These tools enable designers to experiment with innovative ideas and respond swiftly to changing consumer preferences. AI also facilitates customization by analyzing customer data, allowing brands to tailor designs to individual preferences, which helps to enhance the customer experience and increase brand loyalty.

AI In Manufacturing

In manufacturing, AI is playing a pivotal role in the rise of smart factories. By using sensors and machine learning algorithms, these factories can monitor production in real-time, optimize resource use, and adjust production lines instantly to accommodate new designs.

Leveraging data and AI helps increase efficiency, reduce material waste, and shorten lead times, especially beneficial for emerging designers who need to produce smaller, more flexible collections.

Predictive Inventory Management

AI-powered inventory management systems are revolutionizing how fashion brands stock and distribute their products. These systems can predict consumer demand based on data trends, preventing overproduction and reducing surplus, which is critical in a sustainability-conscious industry.

Supply Chain Management

AI is also enhancing transparency and ethical practices in the global fashion supply chain. Technologies like blockchain combined with AI provide brands with better visibility over sourcing and production, ensuring materials are ethically and sustainably sourced.

Image credit: Freepik

Emerging Regulations on AI and Global Supply Chain

The fashion industry is experiencing a seismic shift, not only driven by the convergence of AI-powered tools but also because of increasing regulatory demands.

(a) 700+ regulations on AI

Last week, Shannon Yavorsky hosted an insightful event where leading legal experts in data protection and AI provided a glimpse into the complex web of AI regulations that are rapidly taking shape across the globe, with governments focusing on creating frameworks to address the ethical, legal, and societal implications of AI technologies.

In the European Union, for example, the proposed AI Act seeks to establish strict guidelines around the use of AI, categorizing applications based on risk and introducing compliance requirements for businesses. The U.S. is also considering legislation, with recent initiatives focusing on transparency, accountability, and bias reduction in AI systems.

Globally, the trend toward regulating AI is driven by the need to ensure that AI technologies are deployed safely and ethically, especially in industries such as healthcare, finance, and fashion, where AI is increasingly used.

(b) Emerging Global Supply Chain Regulations

Global value chain regulation has become a central pillar in the Fashion 4.0 regulatory framework, driven by scandals involving major brands, increased civil society activism, and the failure of existing policies. In response, regulators are shifting from voluntary soft law mechanisms to mandatory human rights due diligence laws. These regulations extend legal liabilities across the entire supply chain, holding companies accountable for ethical practices.

Early regulations, such as the California Transparency in Supply Chain Act (2010) and the UK Modern Slavery Act (2015), laid the groundwork for more stringent laws. A pivotal shift occurred with France’s Loi au devoir de Vigilance (2017), which introduced direct legal consequences for non-compliance. This law compels companies to reform their operations, marking a move away from disclosure-focused regulations. The EU is now leading with its corporate sustainability due diligence directive, which imposes obligations on firms to address human rights and environmental impacts.

This evolving framework places significant compliance demands on fashion businesses, which in most instances have multi-state operations.

Image credit: Freepik

“Fashion 4.0”: A Circular Perspective

We suggest that it is time to move beyond the outdated, linear view of the fashion value chain — a view that sees production and consumption as a simple, step-by-step process. Fashion today is far more complex, interconnected, and dynamic.

We need a more nuanced understanding, one that embraces the circular, data-driven world of Fashion 4.0. This new paradigm, first proposed by Bertola and Teunissen, integrates textiles and garments into the broader Industry 4.0 framework, where smart factories, smart networks, and smart products reshape how fashion is designed, produced, and consumed.

At the heart of Fashion 4.0 are:

  • Smart networks, where designers, manufacturers, and consumers are linked through real-time data, enabling faster decision-making and greater transparency
  • Smart factories leverage AI, automation, and digital tools to produce garments with greater efficiency, reducing waste and allowing for more customization
  • Smart products incorporate sensors and data-sharing capabilities, turning clothing into interactive and personalized experiences that adapt to the wearer’s needs.

This shift represents more than just a technological upgrade — it is a reimagining of the entire fashion ecosystem. As we adopt these innovations, businesses will not only need to keep pace with emerging technologies but also adapt to new business models that prioritize sustainability and agility.

At the same time, the increasingly complex regulatory environment, from intellectual property to global supply chain oversight, will require businesses to rethink their approach to compliance. Embracing Fashion 4.0 offers a way to navigate this complex web, fostering a future where innovation, responsibility, and creativity thrive together.

Paths Forward

It is important to underscore the growing complexity of the fashion value chain, especially as it intersects with global supply chain and AI regulations. The fashion industry is no longer a linear process but an interconnected web of stakeholders, technologies, and evolving regulations.

Current regulatory frameworks tend to treat fashion brands as isolated entities, failing to recognize the intricate relationships that define Fashion 4.0. This is problematic, especially for emerging designers who face increasing pressure to manage compliance independently.

Fashion 4.0, with its focus on smart products, smart factories, and smart networks, offers a pathway to addressing these challenges. By leveraging AI and other digital tools, brands can reduce inefficiencies and share the burden of compliance more equitably across the value chain. Yet, this shift requires a more integrated approach to regulation, one that acknowledges the interdependence of all players involved.

As we rethink how regulation and AI interact, we must also consider how these frameworks can be harmonized to support creativity and innovation in fashion. Ultimately, the future of fashion regulation depends on its ability to evolve in step with technological advancements, ensuring a more sustainable and inclusive industry for all.

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🌎 You can find the full paper on Fashion 4.0 here.

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Paulius Jurcys

IP | Data | Privacy | Ethics | Harvard CopyrightX. I share views on innovation, creativity & how technology is making this world a more fun place to live in.